Designer Olivier Rousteing became captivated by the gilded ornament on display in Christie’s while visiting New York and traced its history back to Imperial Russia.
From this sprung an exquisite autumn-winter ready-to-wear collection of bejewelled velvets, Cossack tailoring with pearl and diamond embroidery, and rich high-collar clothes that conjured up Orthodox churchwear – a touch being seen more and more on the runway, according to AP.
But Rousteing, 26, was not just about gemstones, and looked forward, not back. Since he was catapulted to the label’s head a year ago, he’s been trying to turn the page on what some have described as the house’s “trash factor”. Yesterday’s show achieved this, without losing any of the red-carpet glamour that re-popularized the house under Christophe Decarnin.
The lion’s share of the bejewelled pieces might not have been made in the spirit of ready to wear, but they provided a strong direction for the iconic house’s future.
From the salons of Moscow to the streets of Brooklyn swept the fashion crowd on entering the street-wise universe of Manish Arora.
The Delhi-based designer channeled graffiti art in a colorful show with live spray painting that had the front row gasping.
Short coats and stiff A-line skirts gleamed with a metallic finish, reminding us of the railway tracks of Paris’ Austerlitz train station, a stone’s throw away from the show.
Models in loose, flared graffiti dresses with sporty straps amused the crowd as they stopped – mid-catwalk – to camouflage with the painted backdrop, like urban chameleons.
A rich mix of materials was on display, including dyed Scandinavian Saga fur, crepe and silk satin.
The show ended to applause but also some coughs – as the fumes from the freshly graffiti set wafted toward the front row.
Barbara Bui, Rick Owens and Nina Ricci treated spectators to solid, feminine collections.
Overnight, the fourth day of shows in Paris was expected to feature powerhouses Christian Dior and Lanvin.